The first fashion show I ever watched was the Spring 1998 Dior collection, which debuted at the Palais Garnier. On my computer in my childhood home, I felt transported into another world. It’s that feeling when you are watching a play. The room falls silent, and the world around you starts to disappear. The only thing that matters is the connection that is felt by the music, the costumes, the artists, the dialogue, and you. I would cling to every detail as if it were a lifeline, following them closely, just waiting for what the artist was going to do next. There is no feeling like being in a theater, and I never thought clothing could have the same effect until I saw my first John Galliano show.
John Galliano has proven to be one of the most influential and important creatives in fashion. He has a unique ability to blur the line between spectacle and reality within his collections. His ethereal and provocative designs have stood the test of time, and he helped to build Givenchy, Christian Dior, and Maison Margiela into the fashion houses they are today. From a creative standpoint, the Metropolitan Museum of Art deciding to honour his life, career, and work as the theme for the 2027 Met Gala fundraiser is self-evident. When diving into his history, the choice is far from simple.
In 2011, Galliano was convicted by a French court of making public insults based on origin, religious affiliation, race, or ethnicity following two separate incidents at a Parisian bar. He verbally attacked a couple and a woman with antisemitic and anti-Asian slurs. These incidents were filmed and then published by The Sun, resulting in his termination from Dior and his being stripped of the rank of Chevalier of the Legion of Honour.
Since the announcement, there has been intense backlash from the public, critics, donors, and even politicians protesting and speaking out against the exhibition. A lot has been said about the timing of this honour given the global landscape and current issues surrounding antisemitism. The New York Times stated, “the plan risked placing the museum in the position of seeming to sanctify Galliano during an event that has become the Super Bowl of glamour.” Patrons resigned, donors pulled funding, and politicians felt the choice was a mistake. Today, exactly a month later, Galliano said he did not feel the exhibition should take place at this time, and he and the Metropolitan Museum of Art together decided not to proceed.
There is no question that his actions should be repudiated. The statements he made had a vast impact, and the influence and hurt they caused were reflected in the reaction from the fashion industry and the world. Galliano will never be able to fully come back from the statements he made, but the question is whether, 15 years later, this should hold him back from being recognized by the Met.
If I were held to my worst mistake, I would be no one. It is in our human nature to make mistakes, hurt others, and fail. I have never met a person who has not done all three of those things. What speaks to a person’s character is how they move forward. People aren’t linear, and in my experience, the respect I have for the people in my life has come from how they handle difficult situations, not perfect moments.
After John Galliano made those comments, he checked himself into a rehab facility in Arizona, and he has been clean since. In 2013, Galliano met with the National Director of the Anti-Defamation League, Abraham Foxman. Galliano studied with a rabbi, met with multiple Jewish leaders, and visited the Auschwitz memorial in Poland. He took the time to meet with and hear stories from Holocaust survivor Harry Olmer, and offered to teach fashion to disadvantaged students in Israel. All of this information can only be taken from an outside perspective. Only those who know Galliano personally will know the core of who he is, but we can see he has made efforts to learn from his mistakes, understand the harm he caused, and begin to make reparations for the pain he caused the Jewish community. Galliano not only changed the way I look at clothes, but helped shape how I look at people. There is no excuse for his actions, but over time I learned to respect him for how he moved forward, educated himself, and encouraged others to learn from his mistakes.
What is so interesting about this announcement is that it raises many other important questions about the industry. Is there any responsibility or accountability to be taken by fashion executives for the pressure put on designers at the time? There is no question that his addiction was a major contributor to his behaviour, given that he was mixing multiple drugs and alcohol during both of the incidents. It is no excuse, but it is an important consideration that should not be ignored. Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, and Donatella Versace all struggled with drug addiction on different levels during this time, using drugs to cope with the immense pressure put on them. Is there something to be said about Galliano’s willingness to face and take responsibility for his actions once again on a global scale? The actions of the Met seem to be hypocritical and inconsistent. What immediately came into my mind was Karl Lagerfeld’s exhibition in 2023. Karl Lagerfeld was another great designer, but was known for his xenophobic, fatphobic, and racist comments towards others. The Met allowed the focus of his exhibit to be on his work as a designer. Why was Karl Lagerfeld not held to the same standards as John Galliano?
What disappointed me is that I feel like this was a missed opportunity. It would not only have been spectacular to look back on a remarkable talent’s career, but also to look at the person beneath and ask whether redemption is possible. It is difficult to look at all of the light and darkness in someone. People are complicated, and it is much easier to just dismiss someone for their past and move on, but I feel there is something to be gained from John Galliano’s story.
When you watch a Galliano show, the passion, story, and emotion can be felt through each element of a collection. I think that was widely felt, especially during the Spring 2024 Margiela show. No matter how opulent, theatrical, or avant-garde the designs are, with an open mind you can understand the message and feeling behind a certain piece. I think if the industry looked at John Galliano and tried to understand him and his past in the same way, everyone would benefit and be able to appreciate his contribution to the industry while acknowledging and learning from his past conduct.
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